RC Body ShopClear shell in. Finished body out.

Polycarbonate paint, masking, scissors and reamers, 1,168 body shells and 8 step-by-step guides. Everything a body needs between the bag and the track.

Start with the paint guide Shop body shells
HPI Racing Ford Escort RS Cosworth clear body shell with its decal sheets and accessories, as supplied In the bagHPI Escort RS Cosworth, clear£44.99 HPI Racing Ford Escort RS Cosworth body finished in white and orange rally livery On the carThe same shell, printed£114.99

Six stages, in this order

A polycarbonate shell is painted from the inside, so the job runs backwards: details first, backing last. Each stage has its guide and its shelf.

  1. Cut and fit

    Trim the shell on its moulded line, offer it up to the chassis and ream the post holes while you can still see through it.

    Read the guide Scissors and reamers

  2. Wash

    Warm water and washing-up liquid on the inside, then a lint-free dry. Mould release is the usual reason paint flakes.

    Read the guide

  3. Mask

    Window masks first, then tape or liquid mask for the design. Burnish every edge; paint finds the gaps.

    Read the guide Masking

  4. Spray

    Polycarbonate paint, inside the shell, darkest colour first, in three or four coats thin enough to see through.

    Read the guide Spray paint

  5. Back it

    White behind fluorescents and pale colours, silver behind metallics, black last to stop light showing through.

    Read the guide Backing colours

  6. Peel and detail

    Lift the masks, peel the overspray film off the outside, then decals, light buckets and body clips.

    Read the guide Decals

The shelves

HPI Racing bodies

Crisp moulding, proper proportions and a back catalogue that runs from a 1966 Mustang to the Mach-E 1400. Clear shells to paint yourself, or painted and printed bodies that only need mounting. HPI clear shells usually arrive with window masks, a decal sheet and the overspray film already on; each listing says what is in the bag.

See all 188 HPI bodies

The paint wall

150ml polycarbonate aerosols. One can of colour covers a typical 1:10 shell; add white or silver behind it.

All 99 spray paints

Spray Booth guides

Written for a first shell and useful on a fiftieth. Each one lists the kit for that job beside the steps.

  1. How to paint an RC car body The whole job in nine steps, from a clear shell in a bag to a finished body on the car. 8 min read Beginner
  2. RC body paint explained Why a clear shell needs polycarbonate paint, cans against airbrush, and how much to buy. 6 min read Beginner
  3. How to cut and trim an RC body shell Clean arches, straight sills and post holes in the right place, done before the paint goes on. 6 min read Beginner
  4. How to mask an RC body Window masks, tape and liquid mask, and how to get a line that stays sharp. 6 min read Intermediate
  5. Colour order and backing coats Dark before light, then white, silver or black behind it. The order that keeps colours clean. 5 min read Intermediate
  6. Airbrushing an RC body The kit, thinning and pressure, and a first fade from nose to tail. 6 min read Advanced
  7. Decals, lights and finishing touches Peeling the film, laying decals without bubbles, fitting lights and mounting the shell. 5 min read Beginner
  8. Fixing paint mistakes and tired shells A fault finder for flaking, bleed and runs, plus how to strip a shell safely and repair a crack. 6 min read All levels

A first paint job, itemised

Everything on this list gets used on the first shell and again on the next. You supply the washing-up liquid and a hair dryer.

The whole list£45.34

Asked at the counter

What paint do I use on an RC car body?

Clear RC shells are polycarbonate (often sold as Lexan), and they need polycarbonate paint. It etches into the plastic and stays flexible, so it does not crack or flake when the shell bends in a crash. Ordinary model enamel, acrylic and car aerosols sit on the surface and come off in sheets. Hard plastic (ABS or styrene) bodies are the exception: those take normal model paint on the outside.

Do you paint the inside or the outside?

The inside. The clear plastic then sits over the paint like a lacquer, which is why a painted shell looks glossy and why scratches on the outside do not reach the colour. It also means you work in reverse: details and dark colours go on first, the main colour after, backing coats last.

How many cans do I need for a 1:10 body?

One 150ml can of the main colour covers a typical 1:10 touring or buggy shell in three or four light coats. Add a can of white or silver to back it, and black if you want the colour to look solid in sunlight. Large truck and 1:8 shells are safer with two cans of the main colour.

Should I cut the body out before or after painting?

Before, in most cases. A clear shell lets you see the chassis through it, so marking and reaming the body post holes is far easier, and trimming first means you never scratch fresh paint. Leave the overspray film on the outside until the paint has cured.

How long does it take?

Allow an evening. Cutting and masking take most of the time; each coat of paint needs 10 to 15 minutes before the next, and the shell should be left overnight before you peel the film and fit decals.

When will my order be dispatched?

In-stock items ordered before 2pm UK time, Monday to Friday, are dispatched the same day by Royal Mail or DPD. UK delivery is free on orders over £129.99.

  • Order by 2pmIn-stock orders leave the same day, Monday to Friday.
  • Free UK delivery over £129.99Sent with Royal Mail or DPD.
  • Stuck on a shell?Live chat is open 24/7; the team replies Monday to Friday.

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